Surfing into a New Hobby

Photo Credit: Surf Lessons Puerto Rico

Over this past week I was on a very enjoyable vacation with my family over in the Oregon Coast. My Dad and I went surfing, and let me say it was awesome! At first I thought I would drown and die a horrible death in the open ocean, since that’s what I thought would happen. Boy was I wrong. But let me back track a bit.

Before getting into the water you have to wear a wetsuit, so you don’t get cold while you’re surfing. Putting on this wetsuit however it very difficult. Difficulty aside we make our way to the beach where all the locals go to surf and hangout. As we begin the trek carrying our boards toward the beach, we go through this windy path, despite it only being about a half mile long, towing the boards makes it seem much longer. After arriving on the beach, which was beautiful, we arrange into a circle at the head of the beach while the instructor draws a diagram of the area and what to expect out in the surf. Following a brief demonstration on how to bet on the board it was our turn to demonstrate our knowledge, like being in boot camp, we had to pop up on our knees on the surfboard and transition toward a standing stance to actually surf the waves. Our training finished it was off to the proving grounds.

Out in the water our instructor led the way, telling us to stay about four feet away from each other. Other surfers were showing their skills, some crashing, and some coasting in with ease. Getting to a recommended chest level in the water isn’t particularly easy, as the waves send you gliding back to the beach. Seeing the surf coming towards you is an ominous sight, the instructor helped us find the good waves, where we catapulted to shore paddling as hard as we could. Feeling the wave cascade over your head, as well as being pushed with such powerful force is quite addictive. I found myself trying to go farther to get more of the “rush”, only to tumbling down into the water. Personally I prefer Hawaiian style, as opposed to normal surfing, though that’s just me. My Dad actually stood up on his board which was very impressive!

Now for the moment you’ve all better waiting for, I’ve compiled some videos my Mom took of us surfing the waves, enjoy the below video:

– James


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